Photography by Davide Cossu
Words by Eleanor Taylor-Davis
Fulton’s outing is a girly girl’s dream: soft drape that emulated roses and tatty upholstery fabrics worn with big fur coats in sugary shades. Floral strewn embroideries, prints of cats, and clusters of crystals, embellished waterfall-draped coats and party gowns. Demure but youthful, the collection was “Granny Takes a Trip” with a heavy dose of teen rebellion.
Encapsulating this season’s maximalism, for A/W 15 more is more for Jonathan Saunders. Here, the boldest prints ripple across fabric like furious tides in unex- pected, brazen shades of green, lilac, beige and red. Full of optimism, there are colour blocked shifts, A-Line skirts and pea coats decorated with op-art and accessorised with huge shades and go-go boots.
To most, the 1980s is an era synonymous with dodgy hairstyles, cheap fabrics and kitsch detailing. In short, things best left in the past. Few designers attempt a renaissance, at least not without irony. Anderson, however, translates his omnipotent skill to that most precarious of style eras, and the results are glorious. A new wave of fascinating textiles such as jacquards, glossy patent leathers, metallic lurex and devore are played with bad taste, in brave, sculptural shapes and jewel colours. While most designers are stuck a decade or two behind, Anderson’s trail blazed with big shoulders and cinched waists.
Roksanda’s clothes are for the powerhouse: she who does it all, wants it all and will damn well get it all. No wallflower, her customers demand to be noticed and listened to, command attention in a room, and this season’s bold 1960s patterns and vivid hues are sure to turn heads. Fur coats in multifarious colours were cinched in with gleaming metal-plated waist belts to emphasise the feminine figure. Print wise, think Emilio Pucci’s early work with a 21st-century twist. Here the vivacious undulations of colour transformed floor sweeping dresses into modern masterpieces.