As Alan Crocetti’s peculiar narrative weaved it’s way through a second season, the fay models developed a slightly rougher edge that mirrored the collection’s edgier mood. Design details drew inspiration from subjects as varied as playground style and sexual dominatrices, evoking a tension between the innocence of youth and the inevitable defilement of this through exposure to a capitalist society. The contrast of cuffed and claret rings exemplified Crocetti’s diversity of influence – not eager to pigeonhole his designs of conform to one genre, the output was as deeply varied as the pool of inspiration he draws from.
Wooden platform sandals stood out most notably in this collection; they were chunky with clean lines. Teamed with skirts layered over sharp tailored trousers, the look had a referential feel – Crutchley’s artisanal use of techniques, fabrics and styles was heavily evident here; his fastidiousness shown through the careful detailing and finishing of the pieces. A selection of soft woollen jumpers, stark jacquard shirts and signature motif bomber jackets in an array of muted autumnal hues culminated the season’s look.
With live streaming ‘selfie cameras’ and expansive mirrors and screens recording her models’ every motion, Farahmand’s AW15 presentation perfectly encapsulated the adolescent brand of angst that the collection itself centred around; silver cuffs, chokers and knuckledusters heavily referenced the subcultures that can be so influential in the formative years of a young male identity. A nostalgic nod to 90’s sportswear through cross-body bags completed the mismatched look and gave the collection a distinguishing edge.
Mesmerising scenes of opulence met the viewer as they pushed their way to the back of Raven and Rook Gallery, where in one corner a throng of androgynous males were draped luxuriously over ancient rugs and throws, gazing fawn-like at the viewer. Wales Bonner’s AW15 collection Ebonics married luxury and formality in a contrast of fabrics and styles; the pinstripe suit met topstitched denim, opulent crushed velvet met seventies flares. And luxury, oh the luxury, Swarovski crystals and pearls featured heavily, adorning intricate headdresses, mingling with one another to create chunky neck and wrist pieces. This was a collection as rich in historical reference and it was opulent, helping make Wales Bonner the star of the show.