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S/S 15 — Review

S/S 15 — Review

Photography by Louise Damgaard
Words by Grace Joel

 

backstage-1
Balmain
Like flipping through an issue of a 90s Vogue in the hey day of the supermodel, Balmain presented high octane glamour, with looks only for the extremely body conscious. Graphic lines created by cut outs, bandeaus and print, led straight to the point, this season it was all about the torso. Transparent nylon knits and plastic, revealed glossy skin wherever possible, and in the few places covered it was in strong primary colours, weightily embellished and finished with heavy zippers, chokers and hardware.

 

backstage-2
Alexander McQueen
The signature dichotomy of McQueen brought together an extreme contrast of savage, almost fetishistic leather harnessing, gladiator sandals and lacquered face masks, with diaphanous florals which appeared in chiffon appliqué  petal dresses and bold, graphic, oriental style prints on python suits. Mandarin collars and starched kimono sleeves with exaggerated shoulders and severely cinched waists, were at once provocative and restrained.

 

backstage-3
Haider Ackermann
In a complete wash out, a pale palette of nude, blush, and oyster appeared almost android with white brows, lashes and scifi crops. Long, languid shapes were created in contrasting textures; fine knits, soft suede and shiny silks. Minimalism gradually loosened into frills and ruching where allowed, restrained by tied and twisted long, leather belts. Strange proportions made you look twice, a creeping hem or a shrunken sleeve that wasn’t quite right, a dress wrapped around the leg into a short, in his tender and other worldly tailoring.

 

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Rick Owens
Using the Ballet Russes as a starting point, there was probably nothing more shocking for Rick Owens to do than use typically romantic tulle or colour! Swathes of lightness were constructed in his normal volumes; funnel necks and trapeze shapes, textured with smocking and crimping and stiffened with starched canvas panels. It was at once both beautiful and brutal.

 

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Erdem
London’s biggest romantic, this season took a moody Botanist as his muse. Sinister florals and dark foliage embroidery exploded into wild feathers as the show progressed through a spectrum of greenery. Big silhouettes which drew from the architecture of greenhouses in organza structures were suspended from fine spaghetti straps with high necks with button hole detailing, innocent broderie anglaise  and strict school girl plaits hinting at Victoriana.

 

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Acne Studios
London’s biggest romantic, this season took a moody Botanist as his muse. Sinister florals and dark foliage embroidery exploded into wild feathers as the show progressed through a spectrum of greenery. Big silhouettes which drew from the architecture of greenhouses in organza structures were suspended from fine spaghetti straps with high necks with button hole detailing, innocent broderie anglaise  and strict school girl plaits hinting at Victoriana.

 

backstage-7
Kenzo
This season Paris based Kenzo, was all about Californian ease. Big raglan sleeve tops and jackets with wide, calf length, stone wash denim cullottes, channelled Venice Beach skater girls. Neoprene was teamed with white logo emblazoned broderie anglaise, rubberized lapels and wetsuit zippers finished off boyish jackets and board shorts which were accessorised with space age goggles, rock hopper style shoes.

 

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Meadham Kirchhoff
“Reject Everything!” said Meadham Kirchhoff, harking back to the rebellious spirit London has been missing for some time. Layered, D.I.Y. looks of pearlescent latex, sheer dresses, pyjama shirting, tulle bomber jackets and intarsia knits were refreshing, compelling and full of vigour. Reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood’s punk era, the collection balanced the romance of youth with reckless abandon, street cast models wore rubber gloves, teased pony tails with colourful self painted faces, a Blitz Kid antidote to the current state of minimalism.